Based on which describes a modification to convert an LM465 X10 lamp module into a silent aplliance module.  The modification below results in a silent appliance module with the local control function preserved. 

Parts list

    22 uF 25 volt electrolytic capacitor
    1k (brn-blk-red) ohm 1/4 watt resistor
    22 ohm (red-red-blk) 1/2 watt resistor
    MOC3042. opto isolator
    2.8 amp 3AG slow blow fuse with pigtails and heat shrink tubing (optional)

WARNING: This information is provided for educational purposes only.  Any modifications to X10 modules are potentially EXTREMELY dangerous.  You will void your warranty and invalidate the CSA/UL listings by making modifications.  Additionally, there are hazardous voltages present if plugged in with the case open that can cause DEATH BY ELECTROCUTION OR SEVERE BURNS.  Miswiring may also result in FIRE or SMALL EXPLOSION.  PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.  I take no responsibility for any untoward consequences of using this information.

Open the X10 module as described in the page linked above.  Remove the PC board from the module.  Remove the heat sink from the triac (upper left on picture) and save the mounting hardware.  Remove the choke (two green circles) and remove D7, D11, R5 and R10.  The board will look like the picture when you are done removing the components.  You can reuse the 1k resistor (brn-blk-red).  I prefer to use new resistors since I don't have to worry about destroying the old ones during removal, and  since new parts  have longer leads and are  easier to work with.  The other  electronic parts  may  be discarded.   Note the MOC3042 "dead bug" glued next to the IC (pin one towards the lower left of the photo).  I also found the wiring easier if I broke off pins 3 and 5 before gluing the optoisolator in place.

Prepare the 22 uF capacitor and 1k ohm resistor as shown.  Twist the positive (+) lead of the capacitor and one lead of the 1k resistor together.  Attach a length of hookup wire to both the (+) and (-) sides of the capacitor.  Cut the free lead of the resistor and the neg lead of the capacitor to 1/4" and form each onto a hook for connection to the MOC3042.
Next, cut one lead of a 22 ohn (red-red-blk) 1/2 watt resistor to 1/2" and form a hook.  Wrap the hook around the lead of the 330k  (org-org-yel) resistor at the end shown and solder (white arrow)  Place the body of the resistor as shown (red arrow).

Wire the remainder as shown.  Connect the free end of the 22 ohm resistor you just installed to pin 6 of the MOC3042.  Connect a jumper between pin 4 of the MOC3042. and the hole that formerly contained the cathode of  D11 (next to the big capacitor).  Connect the wire from the positive pole  of the new 22 uF capacitor to the hole formerly occupied by R5 nearest to the edge of the circuit board.  Finally connect the lead from the negative pole of the 22 uF capacitor (pin 2 of the MOC3042) to the hold formerly occupied by the right side of R10 (the hole with the circle on the silkscreen and closest to the 330k resistor.

Rather than putting a jumper in place of the choke, I chose to put a 2.8 A 3AG slow blow fuse (with pigtails) to enforce the 300 W limit.  Wrap the fuse in heat shrink and dress (route) the leads as shown (or you wont get the case closed.  Reinstall the heatsink after cutting the tab off as shown on the page linked above.  I recommend heat sink compound on the triac when reinstalling.  Reassemble the case, and voila, completely silent appliance module with local control.